The Boost app is so horrified by this repair that it crashes every time this photo loads. Or maybe it is trying to protect me, as it reminds me of my ex-husband’s work.
Like @useless_modern_god@aussie.zone says, you need to sand it back and paint over it. It’s hard to fill a hole without something behind it - too late now, but put a piece of thin wood or similar inside the hole and then glue (you can use some string to pull it forward). That gives you a solid base to work on. I found the best technique for getting a smooth finish is to hold the spatula or scraper at close to a 90 degree angle and scrape off everything you can. If you hold the spatula more parallel it bends a little and won’t create as flat a finish.
The Boost app is so horrified by this repair that it crashes every time this photo loads. Or maybe it is trying to protect me, as it reminds me of my ex-husband’s work.
I spent way too long trying to get it to stay open, and found that after I have cleared the cache I can look at everything except the daily thread, and if I can quickly scroll down in the daily thread before it opens the photo it will stay open. So I’m 98% sure the photo is the issue, although I have no idea why. If I don’t clear the cache it just keeps crashing on open.
For next time there are little wall repair kits from Bunnings which include special netting with a slightly sticky back. You trim it to size with a little overlap at the edges and stick it over the hole. It gives the layers of putty something to grab onto.
Apply the putty in really thin layers with the spatula scraping it as smooth as possible, letting it fully dry and sanding it flush before the next one. Sand it really flat with sandpaper around a foam sanding block because doing it with sandpaper on your fingers can leave it uneven.
For the paint it really helps to cut a 50c piece sized layer of paint from somewhere really hard to notice of the same colour (use a razorblade and kind of slice at an angle) and get it put through the paint matching machine at Bunnings.
Use a roller not a brush because you don’t want visible brushmarks. Bunnings sell little disposable rollers and paint trays. Do really thin layers too with drying between, feathering the edges out with the last tiny (barely any) bit of paint left on the roller each time so it’s harder to see a sudden transition. Putty and paint the sneaky spot you nicked the chip from too.
The paint colour you got mixed may differ slightly from the main spot due to different rates of fading (ie if the sample paint chip was taken from inside a wardrobe) but do your best, let it fully dry and rub a dusty rag over it at the end so it doesn’t look too new.
No worries. I just used the mesh because it was a larger hole and that really helped to have a stable base for applying thinner smoother layers.
Personally if it was me? I’d just try and sand it as flat as possible, see if I could get it flat. You might need a rougher grade of sandpaper and a sanding block if it’s slow going. Then smooth it with finer. Then paint the spot in a few thin layers drying in between - if it’s still looking very obvious you might then choose to paint the whole door.
I’m not a professional though. Just a renter that had to do this a couple of times
Ok real talk, how do I fix this / make it better? the door is hollow so the putty just kept falling inside - so I started shoving some paper in there in hopes that I can fill enough for the putty to hold. And now the colour is a slight bit off as well - do I just go back to Bunnings and ask them for a new one or
Apply a finishing coat (top coat) enough so there’s no visible inclusions (little divots like you see in photos). Don’t be afraid if its much bigger than the hole cause it’s easier to sand.
Sand that back and really feather it out so when you run your hand across ot you can’t tell where the repair stops and the door starts.
Now you have to paint the entire front of door because it will never match anyway. Use a foam roller and probably a semi gloss or satin paint(I can’t really tell from photos but paint guy at Bunnings will know)
or just wear the cost from the rental agency? Door repairs line this are easy to spot in an inspection so it’s gotta be good.👍
Apply a finishing coat (top coat) enough so there’s no visible inclusions (little divots like you see in photos). Don’t be afraid if its much bigger than the hole cause it’s easier to sand.
mmm can do this one again.
can i go to the bunnings dude and ask him to give me a colour that matches (and how do i get him to give me an exact match)? i don’t think painting the entire door is an option…
I’m renting in an apartment, and I leave next week. Also renting privately, so I really only need this to look half decent before I go. I live in the city btw
II’m just thinking you’ll end up spending more on multiple failed self attempts than one paid small job. Doesn’t sound like you have a tool box to begin with.
You do get the point though? By the time you buy a roller, sample pot, scrapper, tape, sandpaper, to properly use that patch kit, it’s spiralled upward muchly. This is why sheds and craft hoards work long term.
Hey, apparently you’re looking in the region of 150 as it is. Would have been less if you’d left it alone. A new door would be cheaper if you can do the hardware switch. Good luck!
i just got a multi purpose filler and basically did as in the video except apply the patch ( didn’t get the patch ). is the patch super important? i might have to go and get the patch in that case. also need to colour match but how? i can’t chip another piece of the door and take it to bunnings (which is what i did the first time, chipped a small piece from the already broken area and took it)!
The patch will make it a hell a of a lot easier. Otherwise you have to fill the hole, wait for it to dry, fill it some more and so on until you get it to a point where the hole is filled and stable, and you just sand it back.
As for the colour of the spakfill, that’s neither here nor there. But certainly the colour of the paint matters. If you know the exact colour code you might get away with sanding back the spakfill till it’s smooth and level, then paint over that particular section. Once the paint dries it will look alright.
On the other hand if you don’t have a paint that matches closely you’d really have to paint the whole door.
Ok cheers mate, will head to Bunnings tomorrow and look for the patch thingy. Will also try and reach the REA and figure out the color code of the door since its probably standard in this building.
Small square of clean plastic flywire can serve as a patch if you have some handy as spakfilla etc bonds pretty well with it. I do recommend chipping out the putty and using a patch kit as per wscholermann’s advice. I also think that repainting the whole door surface is a good idea once sanded smooth.
You’ll need to mask the narrow door edges with painter’s tape or masking tape so that the new paint doesn’t drip onto the edges and betray you. Aldi sometimes has cheap roller kits that are ideal for small jobs like this. It’s worth checking out your nearest one to see if there’s any left from the last time they were on special. Also check out any $2 shops near you - they sometimes have el cheapo throwaway rollers and sandpaper etc.
A Bunnings paint sample tin or two should be enough paint to cover the door - each tin does about 1 sq metre with two rolled coats, so 1 tin should do one coat for the whole door I reckon.
I also think that repainting the whole door surface is a good idea once sanded smooth.
This might be a problem since I’m renting this room in an apartment and I vacate next week. Would it look odd if I just painted that tiny portion? A couple people have suggested repainting the entire door - any particular reason why?
It’ll be almost impossible to match the colour - paint ages and changes colour over time. However, colour changes only matter when you get the two colours side by side like in photo. A small difference between the front & back of the door won’t be noticeable cos noone will see them side by side. But a splodge in the middle of the door will be very obvious. Basic ‘landlord’s white’ is probably the way to go. Rollering on the paint is quick and very easy if the door edges (and handle & hinges) are masked as per my comment. I would also put a flattened cardboard box or a shit tonne of newspaper down under the door before painting to catch any drips or smears. Acrylic paint is water soluble if you catch it before it dries, so clean up is fairly easy and once done the tape & cardboard and roller etc. can go in the rubbish. Smell will take about 2 days to dissipate. You can speed this up a bit by opening windows if possible, and if not possible by putting a chopped up lemon in a bowl in the room to help mask the smell of the paint.
The really important bit is to get the patch perfectly smooth by sanding it flush. Wrapping a piece of sandpaper round a blocky object (even a couple of dishwashing sponges) will let you sand it flat and smooth. Someone with more sandpaper fu than I have can maybe recommend the size/number of the grit to use.
It’s unlikely (not worth trying) you’ll be able to match the paint well enough that it won’t be obvious. You’ll be able to get close enough matching the paint that the repainted side of the door won’t look out of place.
Terrible job. Would not hire me again. 1.5/10. Also Bunnings guy gave me a slightly off colour.![https://i.imgur.com/RJwQ7ZG.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/RJwQ7ZG.jpg)
The Boost app is so horrified by this repair that it crashes every time this photo loads. Or maybe it is trying to protect me, as it reminds me of my ex-husband’s work.
Like @useless_modern_god@aussie.zone says, you need to sand it back and paint over it. It’s hard to fill a hole without something behind it - too late now, but put a piece of thin wood or similar inside the hole and then glue (you can use some string to pull it forward). That gives you a solid base to work on. I found the best technique for getting a smooth finish is to hold the spatula or scraper at close to a 90 degree angle and scrape off everything you can. If you hold the spatula more parallel it bends a little and won’t create as flat a finish.
🤣🤣
What type of wood do I get and where from?
Boost-wise I thought it was just me… Mine is crashing out on open.
I spent way too long trying to get it to stay open, and found that after I have cleared the cache I can look at everything except the daily thread, and if I can quickly scroll down in the daily thread before it opens the photo it will stay open. So I’m 98% sure the photo is the issue, although I have no idea why. If I don’t clear the cache it just keeps crashing on open.
Can confirm. Can open anything but the daily. Same issue not present on Sync.
For next time there are little wall repair kits from Bunnings which include special netting with a slightly sticky back. You trim it to size with a little overlap at the edges and stick it over the hole. It gives the layers of putty something to grab onto.
Apply the putty in really thin layers with the spatula scraping it as smooth as possible, letting it fully dry and sanding it flush before the next one. Sand it really flat with sandpaper around a foam sanding block because doing it with sandpaper on your fingers can leave it uneven.
For the paint it really helps to cut a 50c piece sized layer of paint from somewhere really hard to notice of the same colour (use a razorblade and kind of slice at an angle) and get it put through the paint matching machine at Bunnings.
Use a roller not a brush because you don’t want visible brushmarks. Bunnings sell little disposable rollers and paint trays. Do really thin layers too with drying between, feathering the edges out with the last tiny (barely any) bit of paint left on the roller each time so it’s harder to see a sudden transition. Putty and paint the sneaky spot you nicked the chip from too.
The paint colour you got mixed may differ slightly from the main spot due to different rates of fading (ie if the sample paint chip was taken from inside a wardrobe) but do your best, let it fully dry and rub a dusty rag over it at the end so it doesn’t look too new.
Source: Renter
Thanks friend. I asked the Bunnings guy what to use and he recommended just the filler and not the kit so I went with that.
From here, would the best option be to sand it, re putty it, re sand till flat, then paint entire door with roller or just the patch?
No worries. I just used the mesh because it was a larger hole and that really helped to have a stable base for applying thinner smoother layers.
Personally if it was me? I’d just try and sand it as flat as possible, see if I could get it flat. You might need a rougher grade of sandpaper and a sanding block if it’s slow going. Then smooth it with finer. Then paint the spot in a few thin layers drying in between - if it’s still looking very obvious you might then choose to paint the whole door.
I’m not a professional though. Just a renter that had to do this a couple of times
mate…
I did my best 😭😭 I am hopeless.
Ok real talk, how do I fix this / make it better? the door is hollow so the putty just kept falling inside - so I started shoving some paper in there in hopes that I can fill enough for the putty to hold. And now the colour is a slight bit off as well - do I just go back to Bunnings and ask them for a new one or
Well you need to sand that right back to smooth.
Get like a 200mm wide taping knife or scraper
Apply a finishing coat (top coat) enough so there’s no visible inclusions (little divots like you see in photos). Don’t be afraid if its much bigger than the hole cause it’s easier to sand.
Sand that back and really feather it out so when you run your hand across ot you can’t tell where the repair stops and the door starts.
Now you have to paint the entire front of door because it will never match anyway. Use a foam roller and probably a semi gloss or satin paint(I can’t really tell from photos but paint guy at Bunnings will know)
or just wear the cost from the rental agency? Door repairs line this are easy to spot in an inspection so it’s gotta be good.👍
mmm can do this one again.
can i go to the bunnings dude and ask him to give me a colour that matches (and how do i get him to give me an exact match)? i don’t think painting the entire door is an option…
You will need a sample piece size as big as a 20cent piece minimum for the colour spectrometer for a paint match
Or ask the property manager (?) what the colour code is
Yup, just texted him to check, might even drop by tomorrow and chat in person
ahh no wonder bunnings guy wasn’t able to match. i might have taken a 2 mm piece with me LOL
start again
remove as much of the putty as you can
look up YT on how to fix with foam
I was advised by many people to fill with putty 🤔 Why remove now and replace with foam?
Sand it until it’s flush then paint the whole door. Give it a couple of coats.
Dude, that’s the definition of don’t trust utube. If you are inner west ping. I might be able to send Boyo without airtasker fees.
On second thought. It’s a hollow core door. Just buy a new one, the things are nearly cardboard anyway.
Changed my mind. If you can’t patch, switching the hardware will be too complicated. Shutting up now. Blargh.
I’m renting in an apartment, and I leave next week. Also renting privately, so I really only need this to look half decent before I go. I live in the city btw
II’m just thinking you’ll end up spending more on multiple failed self attempts than one paid small job. Doesn’t sound like you have a tool box to begin with.
Cmon mate we won’t learn anything that way. Let’s all go on a door repair journey together.
yesss i’m keen to learn how to fix this myself! i’m ok failing a little bit along the way
I admire the enthusiasm. Shall we Crowdfund him a roller?
My shout lol.
You do get the point though? By the time you buy a roller, sample pot, scrapper, tape, sandpaper, to properly use that patch kit, it’s spiralled upward muchly. This is why sheds and craft hoards work long term.
I have spent $15 so far. How much would this job cost on say, AirTasker?
I shall ask when himself gets in….
Thank you!!
Hey, apparently you’re looking in the region of 150 as it is. Would have been less if you’d left it alone. A new door would be cheaper if you can do the hardware switch. Good luck!
Hmm usually spakfill kits come with a patch that goes over the hole and it means you don’t have to fill excessively. See this one [https://www.selleys.com.au/products/putty-and-fillers/rigid-fillers/selleys-spakfilla-wall-repair-kit/](for example)
This video also shows how it’s done. [https://youtu.be/qvRzqNuJk9E?si=apYkkpKYpaY_yQg1]
i just got a multi purpose filler and basically did as in the video except apply the patch ( didn’t get the patch ). is the patch super important? i might have to go and get the patch in that case. also need to colour match but how? i can’t chip another piece of the door and take it to bunnings (which is what i did the first time, chipped a small piece from the already broken area and took it)!
The patch will make it a hell a of a lot easier. Otherwise you have to fill the hole, wait for it to dry, fill it some more and so on until you get it to a point where the hole is filled and stable, and you just sand it back.
As for the colour of the spakfill, that’s neither here nor there. But certainly the colour of the paint matters. If you know the exact colour code you might get away with sanding back the spakfill till it’s smooth and level, then paint over that particular section. Once the paint dries it will look alright.
On the other hand if you don’t have a paint that matches closely you’d really have to paint the whole door.
Ok cheers mate, will head to Bunnings tomorrow and look for the patch thingy. Will also try and reach the REA and figure out the color code of the door since its probably standard in this building.
Small square of clean plastic flywire can serve as a patch if you have some handy as spakfilla etc bonds pretty well with it. I do recommend chipping out the putty and using a patch kit as per wscholermann’s advice. I also think that repainting the whole door surface is a good idea once sanded smooth.
You’ll need to mask the narrow door edges with painter’s tape or masking tape so that the new paint doesn’t drip onto the edges and betray you. Aldi sometimes has cheap roller kits that are ideal for small jobs like this. It’s worth checking out your nearest one to see if there’s any left from the last time they were on special. Also check out any $2 shops near you - they sometimes have el cheapo throwaway rollers and sandpaper etc.
A Bunnings paint sample tin or two should be enough paint to cover the door - each tin does about 1 sq metre with two rolled coats, so 1 tin should do one coat for the whole door I reckon.
This might be a problem since I’m renting this room in an apartment and I vacate next week. Would it look odd if I just painted that tiny portion? A couple people have suggested repainting the entire door - any particular reason why?
It’ll be almost impossible to match the colour - paint ages and changes colour over time. However, colour changes only matter when you get the two colours side by side like in photo. A small difference between the front & back of the door won’t be noticeable cos noone will see them side by side. But a splodge in the middle of the door will be very obvious. Basic ‘landlord’s white’ is probably the way to go. Rollering on the paint is quick and very easy if the door edges (and handle & hinges) are masked as per my comment. I would also put a flattened cardboard box or a shit tonne of newspaper down under the door before painting to catch any drips or smears. Acrylic paint is water soluble if you catch it before it dries, so clean up is fairly easy and once done the tape & cardboard and roller etc. can go in the rubbish. Smell will take about 2 days to dissipate. You can speed this up a bit by opening windows if possible, and if not possible by putting a chopped up lemon in a bowl in the room to help mask the smell of the paint.
The really important bit is to get the patch perfectly smooth by sanding it flush. Wrapping a piece of sandpaper round a blocky object (even a couple of dishwashing sponges) will let you sand it flat and smooth. Someone with more sandpaper fu than I have can maybe recommend the size/number of the grit to use.
I see. Thanks for the explanation!
It’s unlikely (not worth trying) you’ll be able to match the paint well enough that it won’t be obvious. You’ll be able to get close enough matching the paint that the repainted side of the door won’t look out of place.
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